Advanced Guide to Sewing a Tailored Jacket

Inspired by the timeless glamour of the 1940s, the Francine Jacket is an elegant, single-breasted tailored jacket with two stunning options.

Version 1 is our classic Francine Jacket, originally inspired by a gorgeous vintage suit one of our customers was wearing. With a shawl collar, pretty curved front hem and high-hip length, version 1 is utterly 1940s in style and is the perfect jacket to make any look that bit more chic.

Influenced by the genius of Christian Dior, version 2 features a notched collar and longline, hip-length hem, with slanted pockets inserted into the front panels. The back of the jacket gently flares with a classic vent. The longer length means it’ll keep you that little bit warmer, which means sewn in a high wool content fabric it can be worn as an Autumn/Winter coat.

Both versions feature a slim silhouette and waisted fit which offers that quintessential 1940’s shape we love. The long two-piece set-in sleeve is gently tailored at the sleevehead for definition, and the jacket is finished with delicate handstitching for an exquisite finish. Both jackets are shaped with princess seams and close at the front with three buttons. Though designed with two variations in mind, elements such as the collar, front hem shaping and length of version 1 and version 2 can be interchanged with relative ease by more experienced sewers.

Perfect for the office as well as for smartening up a casual look, wear your Francine Jacket with everything from smart tailored trousers and pencil skirts to jeans and a simple breton top.

See what other people have been making in the Francine Jacket Gallery!

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Why take part in an online class?

We offer the Francine Jacket both as a standalone pattern and an online class. With this online class you get the help of three great teachers to walk you through the process of sewing up the Francine Jacket, with great tips, tailoring secrets and extra downloadable guides to help you on your way. It’s like having the Sew Over It classroom in your own home!

If you’re new to jacket making and fancy a challenge, then the Advanced Guide to Sewing a Tailored Jacket is the perfect place to start. With expert tuition every step of the way, this class will help take the fear out of jacket making. Let us help you level up your sewing game!

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Sewing Level
The Francine Jacket sewing pattern is designed for advanced sewers, who are comfortable with hand sewing and interested in learning some couture dressmaking techniques. We do not recommend this pattern for inexperienced dressmakers, but encourage intermediate dressmakers to take part in the online class to sew up the Francine Jacket with a helping hand.

Fabric Suggestions
The Francine Jacket works best in medium weight fabrics, such as boiled wool, melton, boucle and wool blend coatings and suitings. You can also use heavyweight linens for a more summery style, but be aware that as linen is not as malleable as wool,  you may find setting in the sleeve and stitching the princess seams more tricky. The Francine Jacket is not designed to be sewn in stretch fabrics such as jersey or ponte di Roma.

Francine is fully lined, and we recommend using something with a slippery touch to make getting the jacket on and off easier. We recommend fabrics such as acetate, satin and even silks if you want an extra luxurious feel. To find the perfect fabric, have a look our specially curated suggestions.

You will also require tailoring interfacing for the Francine Jacket, as well as a strip of ice wool and optional shoulder pads to shape the sleeveheads.

Fabric Requirements
The Francine Jacket is sized between UK sizes 8-20. You can find more details on fabric requirements here.

Like all our patterns, the sizes are nested to make it easier to grade between the sizes, depending on your measurements.

What will I receive?
The downloadable pattern file contains:

• printable pattern (in both tiled print-at-home and copyshop format)
• fully-illustrated printable instruction booklet
• copyshop permission letter

The print-at-home Francine Jacket – Version 1 sewing pattern is 67 pages long, for Version 2 it is 77 pages long.

So what is a print-at-home PDF pattern? A print-at-home pattern is a downloadable pattern that you print yourself at home on your home printer. Simply download, print, tape together and let the sewing begin! When you print the pattern, make sure you print at 100% (you might have to uncheck the scale box). Print page 1 first, and check that the square measures 10cm x 10cm. If you have never used a print-at-home sewing pattern before and would like some help, check out our Guide to Assembling PDF Patterns.

PLEASE NOTE the Francine Jacket is a downloadable sewing pattern which you have to print at home or send to a copyshop. At the end of the checkout process you will receive an email with the link to your pattern and instructions.

What you will learn

• styling tips for both versions of the Francine Jacket
• hand tailoring techniques
• inserting ice wool and optional shoulder pads
• handling and pressing wool
• hand sewing buttonholes
• constructing a lined back vent
• sewing shawl & notched collars
• over 2.5 hours of learning
• expert tuition from three Sew Over It teachers
• one of Sew Over It’s most requested patterns